Country Information

Azerbaijani food combines Turkish and central Asian elements. Baku has an excellent selection of Western style restaurants. In the chaikhanas (tea houses), men linger for hours drinking sweet black tea out of tiny glasses and playing nard (backgammon). A special place in the cuisine belongs to lamb kebabs of which there are many different varieties. Salads are served together with main course.

Things to know: Although the majority of Azeris are nominally Shia Muslims, alcohol is widely available.

National specialties:
• Lyulya kebab (spiced, minced lamb pressed onto skewers).
• Dograma (a milky potato, cucumber and onion soup served cold).
• Piti is (a mutton and chickpea soup).
• Kutab (pancakes stuffed with spinach, herbs or pumpkin).
• Badimjan Dolmasi (mutton served with aubergine, tomatoes, basil and sour cream).

National drinks:
• Wines and brandies are produced locally.
• Sherbets are popular soft drinks made of sugar, lemon, saffron, seeds of mint and basilt.
• Tea served accompanied by various jams such as quince, fig, apricot, white cherry and plum. Sometimes dried leaves or flowers of savory, clove, cardamom and other spices are added to tea.
• Tea with darchin (cinnamon), ginger and, occasionally, rosewater.

Legal drinking age: No minimum age.

Tipping: Expected by waiters in most restaurants. 10% is fine.

Several restaurants, late-night bars and nightclubs have opened in Baku in the last few years, catering largely for the foreign business community and wealthy local business people. Concerts, theatre, opera and ballet in Baku are cheap, good value for money and very popular. Most Azeris prefer to spend the evenings sitting on their doorsteps chatting to friends and neighbours.

If visitors are intent on acquiring an Azeri carpet, they are advised to visit the carpet-weaving centre at Nardaran. Locally produced silk, ceramics and other craftwork is also sold at the Sharg Bazary (a modern, covered market) in Baku. Prices here are likely to be negotiable. Any carpet or other artefact made before 1960 is subject to an export tax and must be certified for export by the Ministry of Culture. Items purchased at official art salons or tourist shops will already be duly certified. This is not true of goods sold at markets or by private individuals.

Shopping hours: Mon-Sat 0900-2000.